Gaja Barbaresco 2021
'Possibly the wine of the year'
Jeb Dunnuck
Gaja is rightly regarded as one of the greatest wine producers in the world. Their exquisite wines – particularly their great Barbaresco – have been consistently lauded by critics and wine lovers alike for their ability to marry power with precision, and complexity with elegance. A new release of Gaja Barbaresco is always met with enthusiasm, but the enthusiasm that has greeted the 2021 Gaja Barbaresco has been unprecedented.
Gaja’s Barbaresco 2021 has been described as ‘possibly the wine of the year’ by leading US wine critic Jeb Dunnuck, Vinous has heralded the 2021 Piedmont vintage as being ‘outstanding to potentially profound’ quality. The Costa Russi 2021, Sori Tildin 2021, Sori San Lorenzo 2021 and Gaja Barbaresco 2021 are all classic wines that are destined to become collector’s items. Gaia Gaja has described her 2021 Barbaresco’s as, ‘…wines of great opulence and fullness. Lots of fruit, juiciness, lots of intensity of colour, complexity, structure and concentration with smooth tannins…’
In this latest blog from MWH Wine, we’ll look at the conditions that created this sublime vintage and share our impressions having been lucky enough to taste the Gaja 2021 Barbaresco range. While we don’t want to be accused of hyperbole, we believe these are the greatest young Barbaresco wines we have ever tasted. Even at this tender age, they are showing magnificently and in a few years’ time they will be out of this world.
We have managed to secure a small allocation of these wonderful wines which you can view here. If you’d like some help or advice as to which of Gaja’s 2021 Barbaresco is right for you, then please call Mike on 01227 638290 or contact us here. Mike is an acknowledged authority on Italian wines and will be able to answer any questions you may have.
Piedmont 2021: A ‘profound’ vintage
Great wines require a combination of great sites, great winemakers and, most importantly, a great growing season. Gaja is blessed with the former, but the latter rarely comes along, especially in the notoriously tricky upper reaches of Barbaresco. The 2021 vintage was unusual in several ways. The winter was bitterly cold and saw plenty of snow followed by high rainfall. Happily, things dried up in early spring which was dry and mild providing vines with the ideal wakeup call after their long winter slumber. By early April, however, things took a turn for the testing with icy winds blowing through the vineyards and frost became a problem. In lower altitude vineyards losses of between 5% and 30% of the potential crop were recorded. Perversely these trying conditions were an advantage, the reduction in yields contributing to the superb levels of concentration and intricacy that we’re seeing in the 2021 Barbaresco’s. As Gaia Gaja put it:
‘The cold temperatures of winter and spring, as well as the drought, maximized the distinctiveness of the soils and microclimates, slowed down vine development and allowed the micro-terroirs to emerge in impressive ways.”
Summer started well with plenty of sunshine, the high temperatures being tempered by gusty winds that cooled the grapes, elongated ripening and laid the foundations for the classical elegance is that such a feature of the 2021s. Unfortunately, the winds blew in powdery mildew – a fungal infection blighting leaves, stems and fruit – and the team had to spend a lot of time in the vineyards countering it.
The dry season brought concerns over water stress, but at the end of August rain fell and the vines continued their long, slow ripening. September saw more rain, a lowering of temperatures and dense fog in places giving rise to worries over rot. By the 21st of September, the grapes were ready for harvest. The crop was small as were the berries, the coolness of the year leaving them with thin skins, exceptional aromatics and colour, soft tannins and firm, crisp acidity. In short, the perfect raw material for making classic Barbaresco.
Gaja 2021 Single Vineyard Barbaresco’s: An expression of terroir
Gaia Gaja said the special growing conditions of the 2021 vintage allowed micro-terroirs to emerge in impressive ways, and these are clearly evident in the characters of the single vineyard wines. The Costa Russi, Sori Tildin, Sori San Lorenzo are all magnificent, but rarely have we seen such marked delineation between the three as the following tasting notes reveal.
Gaja Sorì Tildìn– Sorì is a Piedmontese dialect word describing the sunny hillside while Tildìn is the family nickname of Clotilde, Angelo’s Gaja’s grandmother. The Sorì Tildìn vineyard covers 3.1 hectares at the top of the hill above the Costa Russi vineyard. Here rainwater evaporates quickly, and the Nebbiolo grapes can ripen perfectly under a microclimate that is warmer and drier than Gaja’s other sites.
The Gaja Sorì Tildìn 2021 has an expressive nose, with hints of lavender, plum, cherry, blackberry, earthy and spicy notes that blend with scents of undergrowth and fresh mint. In the mouth, it is full, powerful and rich offering hints of sweet liquorice and fragrant violets to the cherry, strawberry and plum fruit. The tannins, while prominent, are rounded and finely grained and work in harmony with the tangy acidity to give a fulsome wine that is well-structured and elegant.
Gaja Sori San Lorenzo– the Sori San Lorenzo vineyard covers 3.88 hectares and lies on the southwestern side of a narrow valley that leads to the Tanaro River. It’s been in the hands of the Gaja family since 1964 and has become one of their most sought-after wines. In the words of Giovanni Gaja, ‘Sorì San Lorenzo has a vertical, distinctly defined character giving life to a wine that exquisitely expresses the personality of the land where it comes from’.
The 2021 has an intriguing nose with bright mineral scents, intense aromas of citrus, blackberry, currant and raspberry, violet, lily of the valley, rose and wild herbs. On the palate it has volume and power, the texture is dense, with long and full, rounded tannins that support the ample black fruit, mineral, and earthy tones. Very complex with a mercurial personality, it will have a long, long life.
Gaja Costa Russi –Costa Russi is the opposite of Sorì Tildìn. Whereas Sorì Tildìn is all about power and richness, Costa Russi delivers fragrance, delicacy and juiciness. The name Costa references the side/slope of a hill, while Russi means Russian and was the nickname of the farmer who worked this vineyard and died in the Russian invasion of World War II in 1941. Its 4.1-hectare plot lies toward the bottom of the slope with an unusually unobscured exposure, but it falls into shade earlier than its upper slope sibling Sorì Tildìn which gives it a cooler growing season. Its soils are clay-rich, compact soils also delay development meaning this is always a vineyard that is harvested late.
Gaja Costa Russi 2021 – the unusually cool conditions suited Costa Russi well. The bouquet is sweet on the nose, floral, with hints of red fruit, violet, black cherry, and a salty touch that continues at the palate. In the mouth it is juicy and delicate, the power coming in intensity rather than excessive extract, the polished tannins being worked seamlessly into the fabric of the wine with the noticeable citrus notes adding life and delicacy.
Gaja 2021 Barbaresco: What the critics say
Praise for the Gaja 2021 Barbaresco range has been universal. Jeb Dunnuck called the Barbaresco 2021 ‘Possibly the wine of the year’ and Audrey Frick gave it 97/100 saying:
‘A brightly jewelled ruby hue, the 2021 Barbaresco is super-expressive, with loads of wild raspberries that leap from the glass along with notes of strawberries, pressed roses, fresh orange, and violet. As it opens, it even picks up some spice box, cigar incense, and cherry notes. Crystalline in nature and ripe, this next-level red delivers ripe, sweet tannins, great tension, and fresh, vibrant acidity, without any austerity. A luxury race car, it’s fantastic and possibly the wine of the year. Drink 2025-2055.’
Kerin O’Keefe gave it the same score, commenting:
‘The 2021 classic Barbaresco from Gaja is drop-dead gorgeous. Made with 14 estate vineyards that are vinified separately before being assembled into the final blend, it’s all about finesse, delivering sensations of juicy raspberry, red cherry, cinnamon, camphor and white pepper before a long, star anise and saline mineral close. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity provide the age-worthy structure. Drink 2027–2036.
Gaja 2021 Costa Russi
“The 2021 Barbaresco Costa Russi is a jeweled ruby color and is bright with fresh herbs, mint, cherries, thyme, and freshly dried earth. It has good volume and ripe structure on the palate and is long and cooling, with a note of fresh lavender. It also has a great, mouthwatering mineral tone with a more linear feel, but it’s powerful at the same time, with the sanguine and ripe blood orange notes that are shared across the vintage. It needs time, but wow, is it worth snapping up!” 98 points – Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com
“This is so aromatic, with nutmeg, white pepper, matchstick, flint, bramble berries, blackberries and iodine. Medium-bodied with sleek and flexed tannins that give form and raciness. Spicy at the end. Shows excellent potential. Give this three to four years to open.” 97 points - James Suckling
“The 2021 Barbaresco Costa Russi is dark, rich and texturally enveloping in the style of the best wines from this hillside side. Plush contours give the Costa Russi its feeling of total sensuality. Macerated dark cherry, spice, leather, licorice and dried flowers are all beautifully amplified in this gorgeous, resonant Barbaresco. This is a fabulous Costa Russi.” 97 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Gaja 2021 Sorí Tildín
“A spiced profile emerges from the 2021 Barbaresco Sori Tildin, which has a bright red color and offers notes of ripe black cherries, graphite, wet stones, and darker minerals. There’s more power and backbone in this wine, as well as more depth and structure. It’s remarkably focused, with ripe tannins, fantastic purity and balance, and ripe mineral undercurrents. These 2021s are some of the best wines I’ve ever tasted from Gaja, and this one has great potential for the long haul.” 98 points - Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com
“Subtle and complex aromas of blackberries, pine needles, bark, light spices and violets. It’s really perfumed and attractive. Full-bodied and chewy, but the tannins are very, very fine. It goes on for minutes. This a brooding, muscular wine but it is very refined. One for the cellar. Best after 2028.” 98 points - James Suckling – Sept 2024
“The 2021 Barbaresco Sorì Tildin is a real head-turner. What a wine. As is the case in its best years, Sorì Tildin is distinguished by its nuanced personality and detail. Everything speaks to finesse and fineness. Crushed rocks, rose petals, vibrant red fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper lend notable energy and brightness throughout.” 98 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Gaja 2021 Sorí San Lorenzo
“Presenting a more youthful appearance, the 2021 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo is a complete wine already, with ripe, expressive fruit as well as notes of ripe cherry liqueur and pressed flowers. While the oak is going to need time to come together, the wine simultaneously displays broad tannins, power, weightlessness, and an intense mineral drive. It evolves rapidly in the glass, developing notes of pure cinnamon, and continues to reveal more layers over time.” 100 points – Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com
“A rather exotic and wild Sori San Lorenzo. Even flamboyant. Dried flowers and spices with bark, mushroom and dried dark cherry. Perfumed and primary with earth. Full-bodied and juicy with such fine velvety tannins that are layered and superb. So classic and soft on the palate with great length. Give this four to five years, but a classic in the making. Try after 2029.” 99 points - James Suckling – Sept 2024
“The 2021 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is a dark, brooding beauty. In most vintages, Sorì San Lorenzo is more demonstrative, but the 2021 is not in the mood to show all its cards. Black cherry, plum, graphite, menthol and spice emerge with some reticence. Readers will have to be patient with this embryonic Barbaresco. Sadly, production is down by about 30% because of frost.” 98 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous – Oct 2024
Buy Gaja 2021 Barbaresco
We have managed to secure a small allocation of these wonderful wines which you can view here. If you’d like some help or advice as to which of Gaja’s 2021 Barbaresco’s are right for you, then please call Mike on 01227 638290 or contact us here. Mike is an acknowledged authority on Italian wines and will be able to answer any questions you may have. We’d advise you to order early as these wines won’t be with us for long.
